The Proprietors Bar and Table at 9 India Street on Nantucket is always worth a visit to sample Chef Michael LaScola’s imaginative a playful cuisine. You can order a large plate and an appetizer sample a number of the smaller plates instead. Between us, we did both. The menu changes frequently, so you may not order what we did, but the food is surprisingly good.
Right at the top of the menu was a Cream Puff filled with chicken liver mousse and rhubarb ($14). We split one. Not only was it quite filling, it was probably the biggest hit of the night for us: smooth and flavorful.
One of us opted for the Green Salad with buttermilk dressing, quinoa, rye crumb and aged Gouda ($25), and an exemplary salad it was.
We also tried the Pretzel Parker Rolls with Kobe’s duck pastrami, and sour cherry mustard ($29). This looked great on the plate, but the duck pastrami was so thin we never got a good taste of its flavor. We imagined we were supposed to make little sandwiches of the pastrami and sour cherry mustard, and that worked very well together.
One of us tried the seared scallops with hot and sour vin, caramelized shiitake, endive and turnip ($49.50) and found it excellent.
The other offering was narrated to us in a really noisy environment so we may have the title wrong. It amounted to Gnocchi with rabbit stew and onions ($39), but there may have been other descriptors we missed. The gravy and gnocchi were delicious, but there were but a few shreds of rabbit to be found. However, the overall taste was outstanding.
For dessert, we split a single Banana Bread Sundae, served with chocolate and caramel sauce and cherries ($20). It was terrific, but so filling we couldn’t (sigh) finish it.
Our bill with two glasses of wine with tax but before tip was $220.95. While there were some misses, the cuisine was overall unforgettable.
We had dinner at Ventuno last Friday, and it again proved itself one of the island’s top restaurants. The menu may seem confusing at first, but it really is divided into Antipasti, Primi (mostly pasta dishes), Secondi (mostly meat dishes), some snacks, and Dolci (desserts).
Unlike a lot of other restaurants, Ventuno still serves bread, a half loaf of terrific ciabatta for $6. You can get it with butter, olive oil, or probably both. It’s crusty and excellent!
We started with five local oysters with a grapefruit granita for $21. The grapefruit ice blended well with the oyster liquor to make a wonderful start to the meal.
One of us ordered their outstanding Caesar salad with romaine. Celery, ciabatta-parmesan croutons and Caesar dressing ($19).
For one entrée, we ordered Agnello: slow cooked and grilled lamb coppa ($48). Coppa is an unusual cut, in that it is part of the collar of muscles that extend from the loin. There are only two per animal, so it is fairly rare. Usually it is cooked slowly, resulting in really tender piece of meat. In this case, it is grilled briefly for the flavor as well. It was some of the tenderest lamb we have ever tasted. It was served with heirloom polenta, broccoli rabe, and a caper-anchovy gremolata.
For our other entrée, we ordered Capesante e Gamberi: grilled shrimp and Nantucket sea scallops, served with house bacon, grilled spring onions, spring peas herb gremolata, parsnip crema an preserved lemon piccata($51).
Finally, we split a dessert called Bomboloncini ($15): bittersweet chocolate filled donuts, coffee gelato and chocolate sauce. A delightful end to an outstanding meal. The bill, with two glasses of wine, including tax, but before tip was $233.26. It was one of the best meals we had during our visit.
The Boarding House and The Pearl were sold by the Raynors to Blue Flag Partners in 2019, and after the pandemic and some remodeling, they re-opened this spring. The Boarding House does not have any on-line presence, because they no longer take reservations. You just show up at or after 5:30 to have dinner with them.
The new version of The Pearl is less formal than its predecessor (no tablecloths) and very friendly, as evidenced by the substantial crowd dining there on Thursday. While the menu has some similarities to the old Pearl (our 2013 review is linked here), the menu is definitely the creation of the new management. They do not mention their chef’s name in their publicity, however.
The menu has some similarities in style to the old Pearl, including the Salt and Pepper Wok Fried Lobster, now with a Market Price of $80, and the 60-second steak and eggs ($33) share plate. And the menu is divided as before in 5 Snacks, 8 Shares, and 6 Entrees, but it is rather briefer than its predecessor.
What is very different is the style of the new Pearl. The staff are warm and friendly, and the diners all seem to be having a good time. The austere blue décor has been replaced with tan composition table tops, with napkin settings including both silverware and chopsticks, emphasizing the style of the new Pearl as Asian Fusion.
For our visit last Thursday, we selected two snacks: Lobster Rangoons ($27) and Heritage Pork Dumplings ($25). We did ask how much the Wok Fried Lobster was, and it turned out to be $80, but our waitress told us we would be happier with the Swordfish Katsu ($49) instead.
We also asked her whether, with these two starters, we would still need to order two entrees, and she said no, suggesting we could always add in another Share such as the Spring Pea Fried Rice ($25). So, we ordered that too.
We got the Lobster Rangoons first, and –a word of warning—these come right out of the fryer and onto your plate, and are full of hot steam. Don’t bite them directly: cut them open first. They are excellent.
Our Heritage Pork dumplings came second, and considering how dark the sauce was, it seemed more likely to contain black bean sauce than the specified red chili oil. But again, they were very good.
The Swordfish Katzu is a very interesting idea. It is basically swordfish breaded with Panko crumbs and deep fried. It doesn’t specify any sauces in the preparation. However, by deep frying the swordfish, they have solved the problem of dried out swordfish, which is all too common in other preparations. The swordfish was tender and juicy unlike any other version we’ve had. It was served with green goddess curry, spring peas, and mint.
Unfortunately for variety, the spring pea fried rice was rather similar, so we probably should have picked a different side dish. It came with chorizo and mushrooms, cured egg, crispy garlic and mint, but the peas and rice predominated. We show the two items plated below:
Finally, we chose two desserts, Cooper’s Chocolate Chunk Cookies, with sea salt and almodn milk to dip them in ($10) and Miso Caramel Budino ($12) with coffee syrup, milk chocolate crunch, candied ginger and crème fraiche.
The Budino was outstanding! Our bill was right around $200 including tax and $5.16 “kitchen appreciation.” Definitely a good deal for the evening.
Note: This review was published on Examiner.com in 2013. It is reprinted here for reference to compare with our 2023 review. Seth and Angel Raynor sold the Pearl and the Boarding House in 2021 to Blue Flag Partners, who re-opened both restaurants in the summer of 2023.
The Pearl is the top echelon of the three restaurants run by Seth and Angela Raynor: the others are the Boarding House and Corazon del Mar. The Pearl features imaginative dishes arranged as small plates, large plates, raw, and vegetables, created by Chef Liam Mackey and sous chef Emmanuel Rojas. The service is uniformly excellent in the beautifully designed pale blue dining room.
While the Pearl has gotten the reputation of being quite expensive, only the Wok Fried Lobster ($60) actually is.
The rest of the large places are priced from $29 to $36 and the small plates from $13 to $22. And yes, the Wok Fried Lobster really is good, but you don’t have to order it every time you visit. You can see the entire menu here, and note that they do include the prices.
On this visit, we made up our meal of three small plates and one large plate, and had plenty to eat. The cuisine is dubbed “coastal,” but it is really imaginative ideas from Asian cooking, vegetarian cuisine and several raw bar choices.
We tried out the Chefs Vegetable Box ($15), which was a vegetable plate of shitakes, asparagus, fiddlehead tempura, artichokes, beets and fava bean hummus. There wasn’t a lot of quantity to this one, but the mix of flavors was really imaginative.
Our other small plate was called Sizzling Ssam Plate, where Ssam is part of Korean cuisine where you wrap the meat in lettuce leaves. In this version, a block on sliced pork belly is served on a hot, smooth, black rock to keep it warm. Accompanying the pork was “dynamite bbq sauce” and “traditional condiments.” In this case those included the lettuce leaves, kimchi, pickled vegetables and the soy-like barbecue sauce. You simply picked up a slice of the pork, placed it on the lettuce leaf, added the kimchi and vegetables and then wrapped up the lettuce. You then had a lettuce wrap you could pick up and dip in the sauce and each. This was an absolutely spectacular dish and one of the best on the menu.
Before the main courses arrived, we were presented with a couple of surprise small plates: one was an excellent Lobster Rangoon, lobster and cream cheese fried in little pastry dumplings. The other was a fluke sashimi, served with tamarind sauce, shredded green mango, thai chile and peanut on top. Again, an excellent tapa-sized delicious appetizer.
Our main courses were the Vietnamese Lettuce Wraps, which are a crispy pork and shrimp spring roll with herbs, pickles and a nuoc cham dipping sauce. This one is always a winner and you should be sure to order it as an appetizer or main course.
Finally, our other main course was Pan Seared Sea Scallops, beautifully presented with little kimchi pancakes, Asian pear, black sesame lemon and a Korean garlic chili sauce. While the scallops were delicately seared and very tender and the chili sauce an excellent accompaniment, the little kimchi pancakes and lemon didn’t add much to the overall flavor.
Finally, we split an excellent dessert crepe dish with chocolate sauce, hazelnuts and pineapple.
The Pearl is one of Nantucket’s most elegant restaurants and always a great dining experience. They serve dinner Wednesday through Sunday.
Last night (June 15, 2023) at about 7:15 pm, while diners at the Pearl were beginning their first courses, the ceiling lights came up and the annoying braap braap of a fire alarm began to sound. After checking briefly, the manager apologized and explained that we would all have to go outside for a short time. Fortunately, it was a warm evening.
Gathering outside, we noticed that diners at the Boarding House were also outside, since both restaurants are part of the same building. A few diners walked over to Ventuno to see if they could have dinner there, but it appeared as though nearly all returned to the Pearl.
After we had waited for about 10 minutes, the Nantucket fire truck appeared, nearly filling Federal Street.
Two firemen hopped out and went into the Pearl, and after a few minutes, turned off the alarm and determined that it was a false alarm.
Shortly thereafter, the firemen and the truck left and diners returned to both restaurants.
The manager told us that smoke from outside had blown in and set off the alarm. Kudos to the Pearl staff: they continued service without dropping a beat.
We keep coming back to Le Languedoc almost every year, because we know it will be very good. No surprises: just great food and service. While the menu changes a bit all the time, it always seems mostly familiar.
You may be seated in the more formal main dining room, the downstairs bistro floor, or in warm weather on the covered patio. The menu and service are the same in each room.
Unlike other restaurants, Le Languedoc still serves bread and butter: and a decent pat of it, not little foil wrapped things. They provided a cranberry bread and a garlic bread this time.
This year was not different. We both came with the idea of ordering the Steak Frites ($42): strip steak smothered in bearnaise, with a substantial side of garlicky French fries, and watercress with a white truffle vinaigrette (shown above). You just can go wrong with this one. And it was as excellent as ever!
We chose different starters: one of us had the Chopped Salad with Bleu Cheese and Buttermilk Dressing ($18). It was a substantial serving and as delicious as it always is.
Our other choice was the Selection of Artisanal Cheeses, Honeycomb, Crisps, Marcona Almonds and dried Apricots ($22). This one is also on the dessert menu if you want it afterwards. While not identified, the cheeses seem to be a Brie, a goat cheese and a hard sheep’s milk cheese. A delightful appetizer.
For dessert, they offered a relatively new Small Town Girl Buttercrunch Sundae with Cream, Chocloate and Caramel sauces and butter crunch topping, (Petite $10.75 and Grand , $13). We split the big one. The small one might have been enough, but it was delightful.
The evening was an excellent experience as usual. The only hitch was that the waiters we so busy that the forgot to bring us out glasses of Cabernet to go with our steak. When we got to talk to a waitress, she apologized and delivered the wine late, and at no charge. Again, this is a class act.
Our bill with tax but before tip and with 2 drinks was $182.97. We’ll be back!
From its austere beginnings a few years ago, Lemon Press has evolved into a lovely full-service restaurant. While maintaining its organic identity (even though “organic” is a marketing term), they have developed a menu containing some beautiful and delicious recipes. Lemon Press is at 41 Main Street, in the spot formerly occupied by Arno’s. They open each day at 8am for takeout and sit-down service, and close at 3pm (2pm on Sundays). They reopen for dinner at 5:30pm on Wednesday through Sunday.
We stopping in for breakfast, and ordered coffee, tea, pancakes for one of us and eggs over easy for the other. Imagine our surprise to see that Lemon Press is one of the few restaurants in the US to bring you tea in an actual teapot, with the hot water already steeping the teabag!
What started out in our minds to be just pancakes, turned into a lovely dish of Rose water Hotcakes ($15) with whipped cream, farm berries, candied sesame seeds and cardamom syrup. You can see the two sausage patties ($5) in the background. This was a delightful presentation and utterly delicious.
Likewise, the eggs over easy and toast turned into 2 eggs, bacon, breakfast potatoes, micro salad and whole wheat toast (butter provided) for just $15.
We noted that there is a pepper shaker on each table, but no salt or sugar. They did bring sugar for our tea, and probably would have brought salt if we’d needed it. Service was simply excellent.
The bill with tax but before tip was $43.34, and we couldn’t have been more impressed.
The Club Car, the storied restaurant just above Straight Wharf has reopened under new management, with remodeling that is much closer to the original Club Car setting than its previous informal décor. The story of the Club Car is long, and we recount it here from 2017. After Tom Proch retired as chef, the Club Car was sold to 3 investors, including an experienced and well-regarded chef. However, the informal lunch counter-like décor and new veggie-heavy menu never caught on, and the chef was dismissed by the other investors who restored a somewhat more formal décor and a more classic high-end American cuisine.
It is this new incarnation that we report on here, after this new version of the restaurant had been open just about a month. The layout of banquettes is very nice along the windows and back wall, but the center row has a high partition between rows of tables with 2-tops along the back, many of which are not great for people with long legs and /or big feet. Of course, that is where we were seated.
The new menu includes several specialty cocktails, each including an ingredient you may not be able to pronounce and a more classic menu. This menu include appetizers, five soup and salad choices, and eight entrees ranging in price from $31 for the Eggplant Parmesan to $65 for the Veal Schnitzel. Other offerings include Salmon, Seared scallops, Halibut with black truffle risotto, Lobster pasta, Center-cut Filet, and Lamb loin.
Based on Marianne Stanton’s recommendation, we both ordered their Crab Cakes appetizer ($25) with beurre blanc and yuzu pickled daikon. The crab cakes were quite tasty with the buttery sauce cut by the pickled daikon. But as a Baltimore crab cake fan, I would prefer a spicier taste (usually brown mustard mixed into the crab cake), and a bit more crab and less filler. Nonetheless, these were delicious. Other appetizers include Gougeres, clams casino, steamed mussels, grilled octopus, steak tartar, seared foie gras, fried hallumi and mushroom tartine.
For main entrees one of us selected the Lamb loin ($38), on Israeli couscous, with eggplant, Swiss chard and coffee jus. It was juicy and medium rare as we requested, but it was not all tender, although really quite flavorful.
Our other entrée was the Lobster pasta ($47) made with cognac, tomato and brown butter, served on pasta. You got a lobster claw, poached, and half a lobster tail grilled. The claw was tender, but the tail not so much, as grilling can easily dry out lobster meat. The flavor, however, was excellent.
We should interject here that we wondered about bread being served with our meal. The busboy didn’t answer at all, but our waitress said they didn’t offer bread, but could provide some toast. That seemed unusual. Later, when the maire d’ stopped by we asked about the bread, and he said that they usually suggest the Gougeres (cheese puffs, $7) instead. Too bad we didn’t think of that, as they would have been a great accompaniment.
There were only four desserts recited, but we went with the chocolate ganache pie with ice cream. How could you go wrong with that? You couldn’t: it was superb.
The bill with 3 glasses of wine and tax but before tip was $221.49. Not bad!
This is a shakedown period for the Club Car and they are certain to straighten out the kinks as the season progresses. You should definitely give it a try. To put it in perspective, we ate only once at the previous vegetable heavy incarnation and had no intention of going back. This version shows real promise and we’ll be back again on our next visit.
In this year’s round of visits to Nantucket’s top restaurants, we began with Dune. We’ve been visiting Dune regularly since chef and owner Michael Getter opened it around 2010 and have always been impressed. This year, we found it outstanding in both food and service. While the menu changes regularly, this one is representative of Dune’s excellence.
We began with Roasted Red and Gold Beets ($23.50) with whipped goat cheese, balsamic and red sorrel vinaigrette. The beets were sweet and tender and went very well with the goat cheese and vinaigrette.
Our other starter was even more spectacular: Sautéed Florida Rock Shrimp ($21.50) served on a crispy chickpea polenta, with edamame, roasted red peppers, barley crunch and the most delicious sweet zucchini pickles. While the shrimp alone were very nice, the polenta squares under the shrimp and those pickles made the dish an outstanding experience.
For our main course we chose the Pan Roasted Sea scallops ($52.50) with a spring asparagus risotto, trumpet mushrooms and a brown butter sherry vinaigrette. The scallops were sweet, tender and juicy and not a bit dry.
And finally, our other main entrée was Miso Glazed Scottish Salmon ($48.50) with carrots, gold beets, bamboo rice, an avocado-miso-carrot puree and sesame crunch. We found some edamame there as well. This medium rare salmon with these accompaniments was simply stunning.
Finally, one of our desserts was Strawberry Pavlova ($16). A pavlova is a crispy meringue, here served with a white chocolate ganache mantee’, strawberry sorbet and a coconut crumble. Along with the fresh strawberries, this was a delightful mixture of textures.
Our other dessert was a delicious Chocolate Pot de Crème ($14) with a peanut and chocolate crumble.
Overall, this was a top-notch experience, with an excellent staff. At one point, I accidentally dropped my fork, and the waitress scooped it up and gave me a new one in about 4 seconds.
The dinner with 2 drinks and one glass of wine was $262.14 with tax but before tip, but including an optional kitchen gratuity of $4.81. The restaurant delivers the bill with a QR code on it (From the Toast app) that allows you to pay the bill by scanning that code with your phone. A great evening all told.
Pressburger quietly opened in Wilton last week and more people are finding it every day. This is the third Pressburger in Connecticut: they also have stores in Norwalk and New Canaan. The menu is fairly simple: build-your-own burgers, a few specialty burgers, hot dogs and grilled cheese. But they are all prepared to order on the spot. They anticipate adding a few more items in the future.
So what is a Pressburger? They start with fist sized balls of fresh ground beef, lay them on the grill and close the lid, pressing the meat into a patty. This amounts to cooking the burger on both sides at once, and sealing in the flavor more effectively. This is shown in the pictures of the press in use and what the press looks like when they use it. That latter photo is from the Taylor Company web site. They add the cheese shortly before they taken them off the press grill.
While the burgers are cooking, they grill the Martin’s potato rolls on the open griddle, and then ask you which toppings you want. There are about a dozen free choices (Lettuce, Tomato, Raw Onion, Pickled Red Onion, Grilled Onion, Pickles, Pickled Cucumbers Jalapeños, Pickled Jalapeños, Dill Pickle Relish, Potato Chips, Hot Cherry Peppers, Old Bay Seasoning, Pickled Carrots) and a few specialty toppings (Thick Cut Bacon, Chili, Grilled Mushrooms, Sauerkraut, Cheese Sauce, Onion Crunch) that cost extra.
You also have a choice of quite a few free sauces (House Sauce [Chipotle Aioli], Mayo, Sriracha, Sriracha Aioli, Ketchup, Yellow Mustard, Honey Mustard, Dijon Mustard, Spicy Brown Mustard, BBQ, Smoky BBQ Aioli, Buffalo Sauce, Old Bay Seasoning, Malt Vinegar).
Then they wrap the burger and you pay and go. Or you can eat there, as a number of people were doing when we visited.
In addition to beef burgers, you can order Veggie burgers and Beyond Meat burgers, and a gluten free bun or a lettuce wrap. Hot dogs also come in beef, chicken or Veggie.
Their menu includes a house salad, kale Caesar salad and banana pudding or whoopie pies for dessert, as well as four flavors of milkshakes. You can select from a number of specialty beverages from a chilled display or get one of the Coke products from a fountain dispenser.
So, how are these burgers? We’ve been there twice and are pretty impressed with food, service and the pleasant staff. But that’s not enough. How do they compare with the competition?
To find out, we bought a single burger from Five Guys, one from McDonalds and one from the Wilton Pressburger, all within 30 minutes and took them home to compare. We also weighed each of the three patties. Their cooked weight was
Pressburger — 2.36 oz
Five Guys – 2.01 oz
McDonalds – 1.13 oz
Pressburger wins. Our taste test of slices of the three burgers made it clear, that Pressburger also tasted the best. Pricewise, Pressburgers are competitively priced, with single patties for $6.99 (plus $1.00 for cheese). A similar Five Guys is $7.89 (plus $1.10 for cheese), and the teeny McDonald’s burger is $1.49. Fries at Pressburger are $4.99 while those at Five Guys are $5.99, and at McDonalds are $2.99.
As far as fries go, McDonald’s always receives high praise, but in fact it isn’t very long before they are limp and soggy. And while Five Guys gives you enough fries to fill a Motor Home, they deteriorate in just a few minutes. The crinkle cut Pressburger fries were still warm and tasty even an hour later.
Pressburger fries are cooked on the spot from frozen crinkle cut potatoes. And as Kenji Lopez-Alt has reported, frozen fries are actually better, because the ice crystals improve the surface of the fries when they are cooked. They also offer sweet potato fries
We think that Pressburger is a winner and are happy to have one so close by in Wilton!
