We’ve been thinking about visiting Hoodoo Brown since before the pandemic, and now that we and they are more open, we thought we’d give it a whirl. It’s right at the intersection of Route 7 and Route 35, with a fair amount of parking behind as well as some in front.

We first attempted to have dinner there Saturday about three weeks ago, leaving Wilton about 5:15pm and getting there before 5:45. They politely told me there was a 1-1/2 hour wait, and maybe we should come back on a week night. So we did.

We got there last night (Thursday) about 5:45pm, and were able to park right in front. There was no crowd at all. The really friendly hostess seated us right away, mentioning twice where the bathroom was. Either we looked like we needed it or she thought their food did.

Our waitress was really helpful with their beer list, which was way longer than was printed in the menu. We ordered an IPA she recommended., and it was great While the menu itself is not large, it can be daunting, since so much of it seems to be quite large portions of meats. It features meats by the half pound including: brisket, pulled pork, pork belly, pastrami, pork ribs, smoked chicken, smoked sausage and beef rib. Their special that night was smoked prime rib 1 lb for $35 and 2 lbs for $44. It seemed a bit much for us.

There were also several appetizers, including BBQ Nachos, Texas Poutine, Fried Green Tomatoes, Chicken wings (several sauces are offered) and Burnt End Deviled Eggs. We got the chicken wings with barbecue sauce and the deviled eggs.

Of these, the chicken wings were tender and flavorful, but the deviled eggs just plain weird. The little bits of burnt ends were variable in tenderness and the deviled eggs themselves pretty flavorless.  They would be better if they added some mustard or horseradish to the egg filling so they rose to the flavor profile of the burnt ends.

Oddly enough, the waitress said there was no pork belly (not ready yet) and no bacon or sausage. This was disappointing since pork belly is featured in several of the menu items.

We ended up ordering their copious sandwiches, made up of brisket, pulled pork, pork belly and chicken in various combinations. We settled on the Hogzilla, made up of shaved pork ribs, pulled pork, pork belly, fried green tomatoes and supposedly Hoodoo Voodoo sauce. It also comes with copious French fries as well. The waitress said they’d add extra puled pork to make up for the missing pork belly.

The French fries were quite good, but the pulled pork was dry with no barbecue sauce within. We did each get a small 1 oz cup of sauce with our place setting, and we probably could have asked for more, but it would have been better if it had been mixed into the pork.

If you look at the two pictures of the sandwich, you will see an odd orange square of something or other. The waitress identified it as pork belly crackling, but we think not, as it was hard enough to break a tooth on. And you could play a tune on your metal tray by banging it with that square, which I finally decided was more like petrified bacon. Luckily, we didn’t bite into one! We wished we’d stuck to ordering the ribs.

Their dessert menu looked sort of interesting, especially the Carmelita Sundae, but we didn’t partake. Our bill with tax, but before tip, including 3 beers was $72.

Hoodoo Brown is at 967 Ridgefield Rd and is open T-Th 4:00pm-9pm, F-Sa 11:30am-9:30pm
Su 11:30am-8pm, and takes phone orders up to half an hour before their closing times.

• Restaurants